An Outside Chance

My motorcycle had burnt-out, somewhere just short of St Jean de Luz and I walked with it alongside me.  This hadn't frustrated me but some guys had taken mercy, recognising my surf allegiance and so I hitched with the bike and board, hanging out the back of their pick-up.  They were a few Basque country bronzed, sinewy guys with raffish hair and deep eyes, wanting the sea; pausing to watch her roll and glisten.  Making for short life stories and about places along the coast, the throngs at La Zurriola and the lissome in Biarritz; about freedom, the waves, and maybe a vague story of loss by their words but a truer story of escape intimate in their bodies, but stories, that in the end didn't go anywhere. Sometimes the company of people can remind you of a warm place by the fire or breathing again to the pace of normality and of the far distances since.

My mind had drifted again; imprints with the feeling of gentle breeze.  "Like the winds that come and goes, let them flow through your mind."  Passing a few rag-tag surfers looking like strays on land.  I had become used to the outside roads, it was easy and solitary.  Some stops, along the way, there might seem that ready place to stay, because things seemed pleasant and everyday and stable, but always, I ended back on my motorcycle and the engine already sounding, on it's way to somewhere.

Terra firma, fixed in its ways.  But the water, so vast and always moving.  Once on the water far off shore, the ocean wave would gather and I would wait, as it rolled towards me.

Days of Biarritz: Part Three

Images of Port des Pechêurs are my own taken on my iphone - please credit to SisterBatik

 Image via Arena cafe Biarritz 

Aaaah food in France......

There are few greater pleasures or so it feels, when you are eating well.  Amazing food feels like a luxury, and you should luxuriate in that moment - it should make you feel like you had just died and gone to heaven.....

The first time, and incidentally the last time, I tasted ceviche was at La Rosa Nautica down a long pier which weathered the tempest of the Pacific in Lima, Peru.  As a young group, a few years out of college, we had backpacked, Cusco, Machu Picchu and back to Lima, and it might have been the first day we had felt properly clean and smart after hiking and camping. There were evening surfers dotted along the coast as we walked to reach the long pier.  Being in that environment and tasting ceviche for the first time, may have been enough for me subconsciously not to have eaten ceviche since.  Something to do with memory, more than desire - perhaps it is just me?  Wanting to avoid the disappointment of tasting an inferior version or being in a contrived environment that would desensitize my tastebuds or memory of it.

But back to the present and Biarritz and meeting that fine dish once again at the Arena café overlooking the little beach of Port Vieux, and their Peruvian inspired cod ceviche in lime and coriander (cilantro) for starters - it was a perfect match for my second time. I was loving being at the coast again and the freshness of the seafood, so I followed this with grilled large juicy scallops, seared on the outside and barely cooked freshness in the middle and large grilled gambas (prawns).  When prawns are this fresh, I like to suck the juices from their heads, all with a side of delicious Potato Dauphinoise.

This meal was an early birthday treat - thank you! I would love seconds : )

I also recommend:

Walking down to the Ports des Pechêurs for fresh seafood - where the restaurants are set right on the quay of the fishing port.  La casa de Juan pedro serves from a simple limited tapas style "small plates" menu, mainly of freshly griddled fish and seafood.  I had the octopus salad, griddled calamari brochettes and generous gambas - so good!  This is a great place for fresh seafood, simply prepared and good value for Biarritz. The service and food is unpretentious - the atmosphere and setting is rustic.  It gets extremely busy.

The home-made foie gras with fig topping at the restuarant at the foot of De L'Océan Hotel on Place Sainte-Eugénie.

There are many great restaurants in Biarritz you won't fall short : )

*Sorry there are no food pictures to whet your appetite - I was too busy eating.

I bought these great french artisanal espadrilles which are so comfy and cheery to remind me of Biarritz:

 Images of Biarritz are my own taken on my iphone - please credit to SisterBatik

So long but I may well be back, now I know you are so close by!

I returned with Ryanair - from Biarritz to London.  Ryanair are very proud of their record, as the European airline with the most on-time flights - cue fanfare : )

I hope you have a lovely weekend planned and enjoying food!